Collar.



H. G. MILLER.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED NOV.18,1907.

Patented Nov. 30, 1909.

Fries.

HENRY C. MILLER, OF VJ'ATERFORD, NEW YORK.

COLLAR..

Speecaton of Letters Patent.

Application led November "i9, 1907.

Patented Nov. 30, '1909.

Serial No. 402,853.

fo att' rl2/tom it may concern:

Be it known that l, HENRY C. MILLER, a citizen of the United. Sta-tes, residing at lVaterford, in the county of Saratoga and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful improvements in Collars, of which the following is a specification.

ify invention relates to' improvements in fold collars and cuffs.

ihe main object is to construct a collar that when laundried and folded down it will not crack at the ends. Some of the primary causes of cracking of collars in the folding, after being starched are as follows The collar tops as heretofore made are thicke' at their ends than at any other part of folding, caused by the inturning of the fold at the edges, thereby making it twice the amount of fabric at the ends than at any part of the fold lines; and when seam dampened the thick part will not soften as readily as the thinner, therefore, the endsl a re. more likely to crack. To prevent this, it is customary to give the ends an extra dampening, but as this is done by hand, and therefore not being always the proper amount the damage is not entirely eliminated. I have found furthermore, that where thetwo thicknesses are joined, it has shown that it is the weakest part and when folded it will start to break at that point in the majority of cases, even when dampened by a seam dampening machine and then end dampened. But l have found that by eliminating` the infolds entirely, where they are in the line of fold am able to fold from one to four ply thicknesses when starched, without damage and with less dampening. This is a great advantage in laundrying, for itis well known that the collars are ironed in a flat state, and it is the desire of all laundryinen 'to keep as much of the finish that the ironing machine gives them as possible, and therefore if a collar is seam dampened too much (which is preferably done on the wrong side of the collar) it will penetrate through and cause a rough nish, it will then have to be touched up by another' operator. The cutting away of the infolds also allows the collar to turn down more smoothly. The overseaming stitches that bind the raw edges are laid on lengthwise in direction of line of fold, so that the strain of folding will not come on them and cause them to break. These stitches giving a finished appearance to the raw edge. The ends may be made even lighter than the body of the collar by cutting out some of the lining completely and only over seam the facing plies.

Other objects and advantages will be hereinaftcr referred to and particularly pointed out in the claims.

Figure 1, showing a fold collar ironed fiat. Fig. 2 showing the collar folded. Fig. 3 is a full sized collar end showing the over seam stitches. Fig. l shows the collar top before the rough edges to be over seamed are trimmed oif. Fig. 5 shows a single ply of a collar before folding which also shows the cutaway portion. Fig. 6 showing the infolds enlarged in cross section through X, Fig. 1. Fig. 7 shows a wing collar end which is over seamed at the line of fold.

ln the drawings, 1, represents a collar top; 2, the band of collar; 3, the inturn of folds; 4, the over seaming stitches; 5, the inturn of folds of the band; 6, the inserted lower edge of collar top; 8, the finishing stitches on band; 9, the finishing stitches on top; 10, stitches holding the plies together at the cut out portion before trimming off the ragged edges which are overseamed by overseam stitches after trimming is done; 11, showing line of trimming the ragged edge before overseam stitching; 12, ragged edge to be trimmed olf before overseaming; 13, the infold cutaway part; 14, the collar top running stitch; 15, the line of shape after collar top is finished; 1G, buttonhole; 18, line of fold of wing collar.

To make the method of manufacture more clear so that those skilled in the art may be able to use my improvement, it is best to give a short and clear description of the collar top.

There are two ways to manufacture, one termed hand-turning 7 and the other machine-turning.7 l do not depart in either instance from the general way of making a collar only, that the infold is cutaway in the facings as well as the lining. First we will take the hand turned collar. First the plies are out, the ends having the appearance of solid lines Fig. 5, which show the cutaway part 13, the three or more plies constituting the top are pasted together, then the running stitches 14, are stitched, then the collar top is turned inside out so that it will assume the shape of dotted lines 15, and the solid lines, Fig. t. The raw edges 12 of cut away part 13, are then pulled out and smoothed when the finishing stitches 9, are then stitched, then the raw edge holding stitches l0, are stitched, this holds the raw edges tight and all the plies even so that when the raw edges are trinnned ott on line ll, itis in perfect alinenient with end edge of collar top; when this is done the overscaining stitches l, are as in Figs. l, 2, 3 as will be noticed that the overseain laps over a part of the infolds, this is to insure against the ravcling ot the raw edges; after the over stitching is completed in both ends of the collar top, the lower edge G, is trinnned and banded; and as the banding is no part of this invention so it will be superfluous to inention it.

ln the inachine turned collar, the collar top plies are cut out exactly as the hand turned collar plies; the plies are put in a turning inachine which are equipped with .tolding devices ot a shape for the style to be turned, which turns the folds 3, inwardly on the two ends and top simultaneously at line 1 5, Fig. o; when the two sides are turned they are )laced together with the inturned folds on the inside and are stitched with tinishing stitches 9, being only one line of stitching against the two of the hand turning. The lap being so narrow that the cutaway part 13, Fig. 5, that the turning niachine will not atleet this part, but will leave it extend outwardly ready to be triniined, stitched, and overseained and then banded as in the hand turned collar; this inethod inay also be adapted to advantage on a wing collar as in Fig. 7, which will prevent the saine cracking when folded at line 18.

lllhat claiin is:

l. A collar comprising a plurality of plies connected to provide infolding edges, and adapted to be folded along a longitudinal line and the edges being cut away in part upon one side of the longitudinal line ot fold, and ineans for reinforcing the collar edge adjacent the cut away portions.

2. A collar comprising a plurality of plies ot' textile fabric connected to provide intolding edges and adapted to be folded along a longitudinal line, and said infolding edgs being cut away in part upon one side ot the longitudinal line of told, and stitches reinforcing the collar edge adjacent the cut away portions.

3. A. collar comprising a plurality of plies int'oldcd on the edges and sewed together, all of the intolds being cut away on the longitudinal line of told, and over stitches close together and touching each other passing around 'the cut away edges to prevent the saine raveling, said stitches being in direction ot' the folds on the edge of the collar above the longitudinal line ot' fold.

t. 2t collar comprising a plurality of plies connected to provide infolding edges and having a line of told, the folded edges being cut away in part upon one side ot the line of fold, and ineans tor reinforcing the collar edge adjacent the cut away portions.

in testimony whereotl l atiix iny signature in presence of two witnesses.

HENRY C. MLLER.

Witnesses FnANcis A. MARTIN, "Wu l?. PALMER. 

